Draping and Patternmaking Class Updates

Sande Temmuz 04, 2022

I think you know that this semester I've been taking two classes at Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT): Draping IV (I skipped III but will probably take it the next time it's offered) and menswear patternmaking.

The draping class is very loose, meaning there are just a few things the professor is required to cover -- namely draping knits and doing a rub-off (i.e., copying a RTW garment) -- the rest of the time we work on our final projects at our own pace, and if we need assistance, the professor is there to help. The final (term) project must be completed by May 20th, which still seems far away. It's supposed to be a dress and a jacket we've draped ourselves or rubbed off from RTW (ready-to-wear). It can be woven or knit, any style, any fabric.

Frankly, I wish the assignment had been more specific: when you can make basically anything it's hard to decide what to make!

A recent pleated bodice experiment.

I've been playing around with pleats (above) and various designs from the book, Draping for Apparel Design by Helen Joseph-Armstrong. We don't have an assigned textbook in this class, but I own this particular book and I find it useful. Yesterday I worked on a bodice with a twist and radiating pleats; I simply followed the directions in the book, with good results (below):

I truly love draping as I enjoy letting the fabric guide me, rather than working from a sketch or a paper pattern, both of which, naturally, have their place. As you know, I didn't start draping till last year.

Meanwhile, in my menswear patternmaking class, after drafting a shirt, pants variations, and a vest, we're now working on jackets: notched collars, shawl collars, fitted jackets, etc.

I'm getting a lot out of both classes and they're keeping me quite busy. It's fun to be in school: I'm inspired by my fellow students and the general atmosphere.

In other news, I picked up these Dickie's coveralls on Amazon recently and they fit so well (after shortening them 4") that I've decided to make them my home sewing uniform. No need to worry about wearing out the knees of my denim jeans (since I do most of my pattern drafting and fabric cutting on the floor), or getting carbon, chalk, or colored pencil on my clothes. At less than $30 USD, I think these are a bargain. (I sew most of my clothing but no longer feel the need to sew everything, which was the way I used to feel.)

And that's it, friends.

Anybody out there have a special uniform for sewing? If so, what is it?

Have a great day, everybody!

PS -- You can follow my daily exploits on Instagram!